Q: Marhaban, I love everything arab especially the language and music but people and food........I don't know. I REALLY don't know. I have never met an arab in my life.I want to. So I am thinking about planning, yes, thinking about planning a vacation to an arab country. I want to experience the arabness. I want to meet the people, eat with them, converse in arabic with oud being played in the background. I want to feel the friendliness of the people. However, I don't want to go to an overtly restrictive religious country. I prefer more open ones where I can mingle with even banaat; jamiilaat or not is immaterial ;) Neither do I want to any "tension" filled countries. I want to socialize and basically enjoy my time. Also I need authentic arabness and not pseudo ones as is the case in countries with huge working class immigrant population. I might as well start from Syria and end in Morocco but you see my boss wont let me. Neither do my savings :() Someday when I am self employed and richer I will actually do that. So, what do you recommend me for a few weeks of quality vacation? Shukran.

A: The problem with many countries in the Middle East is that many have become very Westernized. Walking down a street in Amman (Jordan) or Beirut (Lebanon), you will most likely find countless signs, advertisements, and street names in English (or French, in the case of Lebanon). In Egypt, Jordan, Lebanon, and the majority of the Gulf Countries (Kuwait, Dubai, etc.) you will find high numbers of English speakers. In many of these countries, especially the Emirates, clothing has become very Western. While individually there's nothing wrong with these trends, when they're combined, it hardly feels like your in the Middle East at all, and detracts heavily from the entire trip. While Egypt is certainly more Arab than such countries as Jordan and Lebanon, it has had a massive tourist industry for the past century. People are simply more used to tourists, which has both pros and cons. The benefits are that the Egyptians are better prepared for tourists than many other countries are, and the tourism ministry can easily facilitate tourists. On the negative side, crime against tourists is much higher than in many other countries. Taxi drivers, merchants, and tour guides are more likely to rip you off and the pyramids (and other major tourist attractions) are swarming with obnoxious tour-guides (during Mark Twain's visit to the Egypt, he became so annoyed by one guide that he offered the man a hundred dollars if he would throw himself off the pyramid first). Obviously Iraq is out of the question right now and Iran (which technically isn't Arab) is difficult to get into. Syria, on the other hand, is ideal country for someone looking to be directly in the culture. While Syria is a secular government religion remains a major part of the culture. Despite being highly religious, Syrians also pride themselves on their religious tolerance. While Syria is 85 percent Sunni Muslim, there are large percentages of Orthodox Christians, Druze, Jews (Yes, there are Syrian Jews), Pagans, and a small sect called the Yehyeheen- the descendants of the followers of John the Baptist. Syria has also held out against globalization and Westernization, allowing it to retain much of the original culture. The fact that Syria has had a miniscule number of tourists will probably make your trip even more enjoyable. Unlike cities like Venice, Rome, and Paris (where you see nothing but tourists) you will be more or less isolated from other compatriots, allowing you to notice even more of the culture. In addition, Syrians will be very eager to help you and make a good impression on you so that you will "return to your homeland and tell others that Syrians are not terrorists". While many Syrians do speak some English, you will find yourself being talked to in Arabic (wether you like it or not). Additionally, the countless monuments in Syria (such as Crak-de-Cheveliers, the world's greatest Crusader castle, and the Dead Cities, a collection of over seven hundred Roman and Byzantine ghost towns) will not be roped off or heavily guarded, allowing you to literally walk up and touch (sit on, eat on, etc.) anything you want. Syria is rich in history and Damascus (the oldest continuously inhabited city on Earth) is bursting with ruins dating back to Byzantine, Roman, Greek, and Babylonian times. Lastly but most importantly, you stated that your savings wouldn't allow you to take an Arab-World Tour. If it's any consolation, Syria is an incredibly inexpensive country, and your plane tickets to and from the country will probably cost more than the combined cost of everything you pay for in Syria. If you do go to Syria, there are certain cultural rules which you should respect: 1. While Syrians are highly religiously tolerant, they will not tolerate intolerance towards religion. Never insult a particular religion on the concept of religion on the whole. 2. Dress modestly. Long sleeves and loose, non-form-fitting slacks are both modest and capable of keeping you cool in the Syrian heat for women. Men are asked to dress slightly formally and refrain from wearing shorts. 3. Never go into a mosque with your shoes on, or walk behind the altar in an Orthodox church. 3. While Syrians are very welcoming and hospitable (often, tourists will be invited to a complete stranger's house for tea) insults are rarely forgotten. Attempt never to insult a Syrian. 4. Male tourists should not shake a woman's hand unless she first offers it. Female tourists should not be offended if a man, instead of shaking her hand, simply puts his hand on his heart. This is a conservative Muslim practice. 5. Female tourists will not be forced to cover their heads, but should never go outside with their hair wet (I've never understood why, it's just something you don't do). 6. Never, ever, ever voice support for Israel (just avoid the topic, if possible) 7. Do not be offended if a Syrian asks you what religion you follow. In Syria, this question is as common as "what line of work are you in?" is in the West.
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